• Submitted by: manso
• Travel and Tourism
• 11 / 04 / 2010

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Havana's steamy dance festival makes this the ideal time to enjoy the city's party spirit, says Louise Roddon.  By Louise Roddon. Published: 10:50AM GMT 03 Nov 2010. Why go? With Cuba's centrally planned economy teetering on the brink of sweeping reforms, catch its vibrant capital city Havana now, before it changes forever. In the partially restored area of Havana Vieja the sense of change is already tangible in the stylish cafés and bars that shoulder up to the sparsely filled ration shops and crumbling apartments. The dilapidated, no-frills Centro area is still neglected, but it gives way to graceful Vedado, the city's cultural heart. And wherever you visit, the colourful bicitaxis or classic Fifties' hotrods make getting around fun.
 
Winter days are warm and sunny – but not too hot – and in the evenings there is always a party. Come sunset, join Habaneros on their much-loved, sea-facing Malecon before hitting the lively salsa dives in town. Can't dance? November sees the annual dance festival, with classes all over town (November 21-26; www.bailaencuba.com) Get there by…

Virgin Atlantic (www.virgin-atlantic.com) from £600 return. Air Europa via Madrid (www.aireuropa.com), from £400 return. Original Travel (020 7978 7333; www.originaltravel.co.uk) offers four-night deals from £900 per person.

Stay at…

The art deco Saratoga (Paseo del Prado 603; 0053 7868 1000, www.hotel-saratoga.com) overlooking the Capitolio. Bag a colonial-style room with a view, then splash away the jet lag in the rooftop pool. The bar's tapas and mojitos are excellent value. Doubles from £168 including breakfast.

A short taxi ride from Centro is Hotel National (Calle 21 y O, Vedado; 0053 7836 3564, www.hotelnacionaldecuba.com). The Thirties' Nacional swiftly became a favourite of the great and the not so good – from Churchill and Errol Flynn to Lucky Luciano and Meyer Lansky – the notorious Mafia tyros who masterminded its ritzy casino. Bedrooms are a tad tired, but the cliff-edge gardens are gorgeous (complete with Missile Crisis bunkers) and the bars atmospheric. Doubles from £122 including breakfast.

For something funkier, consider casas particulares – Cuba's growing list of private "guest" houses. The attractively bohemian La Casona Calzada (Calle Calzada 508, Vedado; 0053 7832 3133, www.cubaparticular.com), has doubles off a courtyard with use of a communal kitchen. Doubles from £21.50 per night.

Spend the morning

Enjoying a blast of nicotine (it is part of Cuban culture) during Partagas cigar factory's entertaining tours (Calle Industria 520; £7).

Afterwards, head past Baroque Gran Teatro, Cuba's ballet headquarters, and down Calle Obispo to Plaza de Armas. Here you can browse dog-eared copies of Fidel's manifestos among the book stands, before exploring further south where pristine palaces, like gold teeth in a crone's mouth, stand beside overcrowded mansions replete with crumbling Baroque twirls, Moorish detailing and Gothic spires.
Have lunch at…

El Templete (Ave Carlos Manuel de Cespedes 12; 0053 7866 8807), a harbour-front restaurant serving fishy specialities (mains from £10).

Away from the crowds, El Aljibe (Ave 7 between 24 & 26, 0053 7204 1583) is a locals' favourite. Set lunch for about £8.50 includes chicken, black beans, plantain and salad.
Spend the afternoon…

Cherry picking the Museum of the Revolution (£4.50). Housed in Batista's grandiose palace, it provides a fascinating overview of Castro's climb to power.

Then reward yourself with ice cream at Coppelia (Calle 23), a Havana favourite.

Dine out at…

La Guarida (Concordia 418; 0053 7863 7351), arguably the best privately-run "paladar", housed in the homely apartment where the acclaimed Fresa y Chocolate was filmed. Traditional dishes include snapper with orange salsa. Mains from £9.

Miramar's El Tocoroco (Calle 18, esq Ave 3; 0053 7204 2209) has a buzzy atmosphere with traditional Cuban pork dishes and filling tapas from about £6.

Stay up late…

Salsa-ing the night away at Hotel Florida's friendly bar (Obispo 252; 0053 7862 4127), where there will be plenty of locals to teach you the steps.

Spend the next day…

Getting to grips with some of Habana Vieja's easily missed charms. The Egido Market is where fragrant bunches of Mariposa sell alongside coriander, plantain, cassava and enormous avocados. Don't miss Habana 1791 (Calle Mercedes), for personalised Cuban colognes. If your feet give out, hire a battered, Fifties-style taxi to tour the lesser-known Centro (about £18 an hour).

Fuente: www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/destinations/centralamericaandcaribbean/cuba/...