• Submitted by: manso
• Travel and Tourism
• 12 / 30 / 2010

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By KENNETH BAGNELL, QMI Agency. El Capitolio, or National Capitol Building in Havana, Cuba, was the seat of government in Cuba until after the Cuban Revolution in 1959, and is now home to the Cuban Academy of Sciences. (Barbara Bagnell/QMI Agency)

El Capitolio, or National Capitol Building in Havana, Cuba, was the seat of government in Cuba until after the Cuban Revolution in 1959, and is now home to the Cuban Academy of Sciences. (Barbara Bagnell/QMI Agency)

Cuba, as everyone knows, is affordable but it's appeal is more than just economic.It's rich in history: Fading yet beautiful buildings, and old quiet beaches that stretch for miles. And there's more, including artifacts of the Castro revolution of the late 1950s. So in the years my wife and I have travelled to Cuba -- to Old Havana, to Varadero or Cayo Coco -- Cuba became memorable for its diversity of choices.

Take for example Varadero. East of Havana, it's probably Cuba's most popular sun destination. Its beaches are renowned -- one measures more than 10 km -- and the town of about 14,000 residents has character and is worth a visit.

Spaniards -- mostly fishing families -- started Varadero in the 16th century. Later, in the 20th century, Varadero became the playground of the rich and the dubious, from the very wealthy Dupont family -- whose dark mahogany mansion endures -- to the infamous Al Capone.

My memories include a very pleasurable stay at Melia Las Americas, a spotless hotel on the water's edge -- one of several managed by Spain's Sol Melia. It's memorable not only for its fine suites and service but also for its restaurants, where the well chosen and well prepared food surpasses Cuba's so-so culinary reputation.

An afternoon van excursion to Havana made me want to spend more time in that city and, a year or so later, Barbara and I settled in Old Havana, with its mysterious haunted streets.

We divided our time between two diverse hotels. The first -- Ambos Mundo -- is renowned because Ernest Hemingway resided there in the 1930s. His somewhat dark and unpretentious room is open for viewing. The second, the modern Parque Central, its facade softened by almond trees and royal palms, is next to Old Havana's historic symbols: The domed state house, and elegant towers and Parisian-like buildings of a long vanished time. The hotel's rooftop cafe provides a view of the architectural glories of a Havana that we may not see again.

Havana's people have complained during the Castro years sidewalks and streets were allowed to decay in favour of the countryside. But there's reason for optimism now as Cuba looks like its ready to introduce some market economy in its future.

Our days there passed quickly because of all we saw: Galleries, cathedrals, the Museum of the Revolution, street performers, Hemingway's nearby home, and a show at the famed Tropicana night club.

We could have taken a trip to a beach but we saved that for another visit, this time to a quiet place with an evocative name: Cayo Coco. It's part of an island chain linked to the mainland by a very long bridge. Once there, we settled into a villa like cottage at another Melia hotel, an adults-only property ibuilt around a lagoon but also near the beach, where we did what most Canadians do: Rested, renewed and read the books we had brought.

The walks on Cayo Coco are hard to forget: Taken together there's about 25 km of sand and more than 100 species of birds, including many flamingos, herons, hummingbirds and egrets.

Solitude permeates the place, so I understand friends who insist on going to Cuba simply for sun, sand and sea in Varadero or Cayo Coco.

But excursions to Havana -- some by bus, others by plane -- are available not only from Varadero and Cayo Coco, but also from Cayo Largo, Cayo Santa Maria or Holquin.

And I keep hoping more Canadians will include an excursion to historic Havana in their vacation plans.

Many tour operators offer trips to Cuba, some that combine a beach vacation with a trip to Havana. We travelled with Signature Vacations, see Signature.ca.  

This story was posted on Thu, December 30, 2010

source: www.canoe.ca/Travel/Caribbean/2010/12/17/16593571.html?cid=rsstravelfeat...